Alfama District
The only neighborhood that survived the big earthquake of 1755, mostly because it was built on solid rock. Originally a Moorish quarter (Alfama comes from the Arabic Al-hamma, meaning 'hot fountains'), it's now home to Fado music, sardine-grilling competitions, and elderly ladies chatting from their windows. The streets here make no sense - they were designed that way to confuse invaders, and they're still confusing tourists today. It's where you'll find the city's oldest church (Sé Cathedral, built in 1147), and during June, the whole area turns into one big street party for Santo António festivities. (Tip: forget the map, just get lost in the alleys - and take the 28 tram uphill if you're tired of climbing.)
